When I first heard that Liam Gallagher had started his own clothing line called Pretty Green, I was intrigured. Not that Liam has ever struck me as an obvious fashion hero, but dude does have a clever sense of style that harkens back to the scooter boy period of the early/ mid 60’s. And there is no denying how influential he was during the heyday of Britpop; every proper Anglophile fanboy outfitted himself in a furry hooded parka after seeing Liam practically living in his (it has been noted that after the frontman wore one in the video for “Do Y’Know What I Mean?”, the army surplus staple sold out all over Britain).

But when I first checked out the website, I was supremely underwhelmed. The merch just looked like everything Liam had ever worn (from Ben Sherman-style polos and zip-front windbreakers to that ubiquitous olive green parka) but at ten times the price. He even collaborated with Clark’s for his own Pretty Green model which looks pretty much the same as the brand’s original desert boot but with a couple of minor tweaks.

However, after hearing that the modfather himself, Paul Weller, joined the Pretty Green team this spring, I had hope that this president of the style council would steer Mr. Ex-Oasis in the right direction.  And judging from some of the Fall collection that is slowly rolling into the website, it definitely looks like Paul is having some influence.

For starters, there is this dandy velvet peacoat that looks straight out of 1967 (a very good period for fashion revivalism):

The lush red color and black piping trim are what makes this piece particularly jaunty.

The paisley collarless shirt (pictured here in purple) looks as though it was worn by one of the Beatles while they were visiting the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi.

And even though this is from the spring, the boating blazer is a looker.

Pretty Green is only a year old at this point so it remains to be seen how it fairs in the retail fashion world.  But if Liam is a smart guy (which, frankly, is debatable), he will keep Paul Weller on board and maybe even put him as head of design.

With an apprenticeship under YSL-era Hedi Slimane and a stint as design director at Ralph Lauren’s Black and Purple labels, it should come as no surprise that the overall aesthetic of Simon Spurr’s SPURR label could be called “Prep School Boy Without a Cause”. An English-native now living in NYC, Simon consistently turns out Saville Row-tailored pieces that channel a formidable rock ‘n’ roll spirit (reference points often come from the pages of pop music’s past with Hendrix and Bowie being notable sources of inspiration).

For fall 2010, SPURR gives a nod to several former-day subcultures without crossing the line into derivatively retro. Contrast-edged blazers (a designer signature) and black leather jackets recall the late 50’s-early 60’s Teds and rockers just as the peacoats and striped suits bring to mind the mods (and the famous clashes the two groups engaged in). But on this runway, all teams agree on a silhouette that is fit and trim and top-notch tailored, though much more forgiving and wearble than the styles of Simon’s YSL mentor. Whether single or double breasted, all suit jackets have two-button stance cuts. And even though it’s fall, SPURR isn’t afraid to show off in a little flush pink or Mediterranian blue.

images from GQ.com

The French Riviera is #2 on my list of Ultimate Travel Destinations (Holland in the late spring is numero uno…what can I say, I dream of frolicking in tulip fields). The early 70’s is quite possibly my favorite style destination, time machine be damned. Combine the two and what you’ve got is the summer 1972 issue of GQ magazine.

Boasting an endless photo parade of shiny bronzed men in lusty locales, we are introduced to Jean-Paul and Phillippe, a couple of international men of mystery who deck themselve out in wee little swim shorts, slinky disco shirts, and fantastically hued trousers. We follow the two as they pick up a “petite amie” called Anouk and leave a devilish trail from Cannes to St. Tropex to Nice, all while sporting some of the most fashionably fashionable fashions of the season. “When all is said and done,” says G, “the French Riviera is where it was, where it’s at, and-in all likelihood-where it evermore shall be”. I am hoping that remains true by the time I make it over there.

In the meantime, Philippe, call me!

For most of us, active participation in a live auction begins and ends with eBay (or for some, images of a fast-talking Southerner with a gavel at the county fair come to mind).   However, if your taste (and credit limit) leans more towards those types of items found behind glass at the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame, it’s best that you check out Julien’s Music Icons Auction.  A helluva lot more fun than pish posh Sotheby and Christies, Julien’s name has become synonymous with the pop culture goodies I would amputate my own limbs for (they’re they ones who made headlines last November when Michael Jackson’s “Motown 25″ crystal glove fetched a mind-blowing $350,000 at auction).  

Come June 24th, the feeding frenzy will no doubt return as more of MJ’s belongings, as well as hundreds of other rock and pop items, make their way to the auction block (including twenty-two furniture lots that were to dress Michael’s planned English estate during his “This Is It” concert extravaganza).  Drawings by Kurt Cobain, Prince’s sculptural purple “Love Symbol” guitar, and various hand-writtern lyrics, gold records, and concert posters are all up for grabs.  Of course, the wearables will always be what I want to see most and there are plenty to be had this time around, including:

Elton John

John Lennon

Michael Jackson (I want, by the way).

Elvis Presley

John Entwistle

Jackson 5

Madonna (I know this is a menswear blog, but how can you not include Madonna’s bra?)

If you’ll be in Las Vegas mid-late June, you can visit the public exhibition from the 14th-24th and if you’re deeper in the wallet than I am and shopping around for the perfect signed guitar, the auction takes place June 24th-25th (bidding is accepted in person and online).  Also taking place that weekend are the Hollywood Legends and Star Trek sales.  All events will be held at Planet Hollywood.

For more information (and to flip through the catalog), visit Julien’s Auctions.

Could this book be any more epic?

According to the cover, Male Model: The World Behind the Camera  seeks to give ”these totally familiar faces and images…voice to tell their stories”.  Awe, the poor moddles, so mizunderstood!  Anyway, I have quite a soft spot for old behind-the-scenes glamour books of this sort (Male Model is just one of a handful in my library).  The furrowed brow-seriousness of campy fashion photographs from the 1970’s always send me into fits of giddiness and this book is full of Grade A chuckles.  Below are some choice cuts.

Village Person or Chippendale? 

“Underflair”?  More like FUNderwear! Am I right?

It’s like the moddle version of “The Brady Bunch”.

Shades of Derek Zoolander.  Inspiration for the sequel, perhaps?

Look at your man, now look at me.

That’s lovely Renee Russo sexing it up with a Marloboro-like man.

Happy cowboy.  Weeeee!!!

Not exactly sure where I picked up this little nugget but it was definitely on one of my thrifting excursions. It goes without saying that it’s worth far more in laughs than the 50 cents I probably paid for it.  Luckily, there are some second-hand copies available through Amazon  if you hunger for more.

Elvis Fashion: From Memphis to Vegas had been on my Amazon Wish-List for quite some time but I never got around to actually buying it.  Although I do enjoy Elvis’ screwball popcorn flicks of the mid-60’s and can appreciate him, his music and the colossal influence he continues to have on pop-culture (as well as his favorable view of jumpsuits), I never worshipped him in the way that I do for, say, the Beatles.

But a couple weeks ago, I decided to stop dilly-dallying, revisit my Wish-List and press the “Add to Cart” button once and for all.  I am so glad I did.  

Elvis Fashion is like Graceland in page-format but spotlights The King’s clothing and accessories.  Author Julie Mundy collaborated with the celebrated estate to document Elvis’ wardrobe, on-screen and off.  Alongside close-up photos are the stories behind the looks, including bios and anecdotes from those who clothed the rock star (which included Nudie Cohn, Sy Devore and Edith Head).   What I enjoy most are the images of the garments on mannequins and the way they are lovingly strewn about throughout the rooms of the mansion (it might be the next best thing to actually visiting Graceland). The most minute construction details are wonderfully captured: top-stitching pops off the pages while every cord of fringe can be counted.

The clothes may have not have made this man but they sure helped make him an icon.

Most famous for outfitting David Bowie and Mick Jagger in dresses, Michael Fish was a 60’s-70’s British designer who is often credited with leading the “Peacock Revolution” in men’s fashion. Spending the early part of his career sweating it out in various London haberdasheries, he landed at Turnbull & Asser when the clothier decided it needed to jump on the rumbling rock ‘n’ roll youthquake. As a neckwear buyer, he brought in wider and wider styles which became known as “kippur ties” (a pun on the designer’s surname).

In 1966, Michael opened his boutique, Mr. Fish, which catered to the newly moneyed young creatives and private school boys hell-bent on rebelling against Mother and Father. The aim was to bring the pomp of Carnaby Street to the quality and tradition of Saville Row. The shop’s design achieved just that: a classic English manor-like study with chandelier and plush drapery but decked out in the brilliant hues that characterized the times. Michael stocked the store with velvet jackets, frilly bib dress shirts, cashmere socks, and paisley everything. And then there were the custom suits, double-breasted, narrow and fitted, with brightly colored linings that provided an unexpected pop when they peaked out from inside (he even dressed Peter Sellers in one of my very favorite movies, There’s a Girl in My Soup).

His attempt at ushering in dresses for dudes never really took, save for a couple of aforementioned legends who tried it once. “I always believed men are not physically designed for trousers, ” he maintained at the time. “Fashion, you see, is in the mind. You have to think differently before you can dress differently”.

The Del-Vetts were a garage rock band from Chicago who had a minor local hit in 1966 with the Yardbirds-style tune, “Last Time Around”.  In this promo shot, the foursome get their best postures on with the city’s metropolitan landscape in the background.  Sporting typical swinging mod gear of dandy high-button stance jackets, turtleneck sweaters and drain-pipe trousers, they look like a group who could wreck some serious fuzz-guitar laden-havoc.

Life magazine must have really enjoyed that photo because they practically reshot it line-for-line for their May 13th 1966 story about “The Revolution of Male Clothes”.  Standing in the same Chi-town location, models (who were only referred to as “Chicago school students”) were posed almost exactly like the Del-Vetts had before them.   The outfits were also so similar, a quick glance at the two photos and you might mistake them for one in the same. 

The band weren’t even mentioned in the article inside even though it focused on mod fashion and the music scene that adopted it.  Somehow I can’t imagine a magazine getting away with such blatant copy-catting  nowadays.  But still, the article is a great piece of 60’s fashion nostalgia if you can track down this issue.

Lenny Kravitz has been playing it cool the past couple of years, staying out the spotlight and keeping somewhat under-the-radar.  But with the success of Precious and a new album being released later this year (one that includes an previously unheard duet with Michael Jackson), Lenny’s been slowly sliding back into the public consciousness. 

So the other night I was flipping through the channels and caught him mid-interview with George Lopez (painfully awful show, but I digress).   Dude is still smooth, for sure, and was as impeccably dressed as ever in combat boots, tight leather jacket, and artfully arranged neck scarf.  The overall look?  Two enthusiastic thumbs up, of course (does Lenny ever disappoint?). 

But I became unusually fixated on the slouchy knit cap he was sporting, one that sparkled ever so subtly under the low-lit studio lights.   As a hat addict, I realized that although I have similar toppers in my collection, I have nothing quite exactly like that one.

So naturally, I jumped onto Etsy to check out my options (some of my favorites are below). 

Mi Scusi Hand Made $25

Suzanne’s Stitches $10

Luxe Knits $22

As of this moment, I have done a fine job of resisting the “Add to Cart” button but chances are, my newfound discipline will be short-lived.

Even though I may have had Dookie on semi-heavy rotation back in college, I never considered myself much of a Green Day fan (I spent most of my time worshipping Beck, Oasis, and yes, Better Than Ezra).  These days, though, I fully admit to appreciating how much they’ve grown from snotty-assed Cali pop punks to respected Broadway-bound rock royalty.  In an industry that covets newness and one-hit-hot messes, their longevity is impressive.  Add to that the fact that these guys don’t seem to age (they’re all pushing 40), we have to assume they’ve made multiple pacts with evil-doers. 

But Satan aside, they have had a little help along the way, beginning with one mere mortal called Hedi Slimane.  Ever since they hooked-up with Hedi during his reign at Dior Homme, Green Day’s style has grown-up too:  the striped thrift-store sweaters and ironic tees of yore slowly evolved into a skinny 70’s/ 80’s sensibility befitting a band that also finds musical inspiration from that particular era.   Billie Joe, Mike, and Tré almost exclusively wear sharply-tailored jackets with innovative details paired with narrow ties and slim fit trousers.  And by staying faithful to black with red pops, visually they echo new wave hero Gary Numan.  It’s a transformation that feels a lot more organic than they’re given credit for (“selling out” is something the band has been accused of way too often).  Avril Lavigne and her devil horn hoodies should step away from the Hot Topic and take notes because this is how a suburban wannabe pop rocker should want to look.