resort | karen walker
With political activism on the rise, Karen Walker’s resort line seems especially on-point.
Pre-spring/ resort collections are typically unveiled about 6 months before they go on sale to the public. So taking this into account, as well as our current climate for political activism, designer Karen Walker seems especially prescient with her resort range. Entitled Mujer, Karen pays homage to the women of the 1936 Spanish Revolution, where workers organized and revolted against Francisco Franco, the fascist dictator who was trying to overturn the republic.
Vintage photos reveal female militia fighting alongside the men, rifles upright and wearing utilitarian garb — work shirts, skirts, and balloon trousers in tough cotton canvas and denim. Karen faithfully recreates this workwear aesthetic and mixes in some traditional (and feminine) Spanish flair, like ruffles, bare-shoulders, and bouquet prints. The emphasis is on fabrics and volume, whether its a roomy cotton peasant top or high-waisted peg legged pants in khaki. Edges are frayed and worn (though not destroyed), denim is either antique indigo or completely bleached out. As the brand states in the season’s mission statement: ‘Hemingway made it clear that the Spanish Revolution was “no time for girls”, but there are no girls here, just strong, capable women for whom the bell tolls…’